Once, many ages ago, a mixologist didn’t have quite as many choices in Gin as they do today. There was once only one spirit, Genever. Genever was the original juniper-flavored spirit, originating in Holland, and traditionally distilled from various malts in a copper pot still.
Over hundreds of years, a few wars, and the invention of the continuous still, Imitations and recreations found the category branching into three or four, or more separate styles, depending on who you ask. The chaos eventually settled down, and London Dry Gin came out as the spirit on top in the U.S., leaving Old Tom and Genever in its wake.
But, with the recent reinvigoration of classic mixology comes a keen interest in classic spirits. Nowadays, you can get Plymouth, London Dry, a few of what are being called New World Gins, recreations of Old Tom, and that most anticipated authentic spirit, Genever.
Surprisingly enough, for a rum guy, I found a few recently bottled Genevers or Genever style gins down in the galley. I thought I’d share a few thoughts on what I found there.
Boomsma is imported from Holland, and is available in two varieties, Oude and Jounge. These can describe age or method, depending on who you ask it seems. Boomsma Jounge is bottled at 80 proof, and is quite rich in texture, with a very light floral flavor. The Oude is aged for a year in oak barrels, and carries the straw color and slightly tannic flavor of the young barrels. The year of aging gives it a pleasingly light palate entry, and definitely feels to be from the same stock as the Jounge. It’s a treat if you can get your hands on it, and another to add to the collection of barrel-aged gin/genever.
Anchor Distilling’s Genevieve earned them some regard a few years back. It is a Genever style gin bottled at around 95 proof, and is a thin but powerfully flavored gin. So much of a knockout is the flavor, I’m not sure it could be particularly useful in drinks calling for the rich texture and grain and flora flavor in traditional Genevers.
Bols has recently relaunched their Genever in the U.S., using a classic recipe, slightly modified for the modern mixologist. Bols Genever is, of the availalable Genevers, certainly the richest in texture. Bottled at 84 proof, it’s so thick in feel one could almost chew on it. It’s great for bringing texture into flavorful but texture-lacking spirits, as some Amaro can be. The flavors are very light, but there is some definite malt and juniper to it. For my take, the flavor almost takes a back note to the rather amazing texture.
Bols has been launched in San Francisco and New York, and will likely continue to spread. Genevieve is available just about everywhere, and Boomsma is available in California, or from what we like to call “Fight Club liquors”. (here’s a hint, you’re in the arena right now)
I hope you get a chance to find some Genever ar your local liquor store, and can join us tonight in the Mixoloseum Chat Room for this TDN Bols Genever! Get your mixological thinking caps on, and we’ll see you there!
