Citadelle is not the best gin I have ever drank, but I would put it in my top three. Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength and Junipero, at least on my palette, are superior gins. But the margins of preference here are slight, and where I shop, those two run for $36 and $40 per bottle, respectively. Citadelle, meanwhile, costs me $23. Needless to say, I drink A LOT of Citadelle. In fact, it is probably a safe bet that I go through more of the French gin in the blue bottle than any spirit in my liquor cabinet. (As it so happens, Citadelle doesn’t spend any time in my liquor cabinet. She has a cozy spot in the corner of my freezer, ready and waiting any time the need for a martini strikes.) As you might imagine, I was more than a little excited to hear that the producers of my martini staple were releasing a new gin. I was more excited still to learn that they would be sending a bottle of it to my doorstep. So, for the past several months I have been waiting, in eager anticipation.
And friends, my patience has been rewarded. Behold: Citadelle Reserve.
The impact of the oak is immediately apparent upon uncorking. Juniper remains dominant, but is somewhat muted in comparison to the standard Citadelle, and there is a lightly floral quality with a hint of vanilla. In appearance, with a light blonde color, the gin could be mistaken for a chardonnay were it not for its thick, viscous legs. On the tongue, the barrel aging comes out as a light touch of oak, which plays nicely with the orange peel and anise. Almond and lemon lingers after swallowing, with a modest alcohol burn. In addition to a tamer presence of juniper, the cardamom and nutmeg notable in Citadelle’s standard gin is somewhat less prominent here, for better or worse. The base alcohol tastes cleaner than other gins, presumably a result of the charred barrel staves behaving as a sort of charcoal filter. The overall effect is a delicate, floral gin that comes across a bit less dry than the original Citadelle. In a word: lovely.
Sadly, the Réserve in the name is not merely a buzzword from the marketing department. This is a small production gin. Frédéric Gilbert, Cellar Master for Cognac Ferrand, will be releasing a scant 21 barrels worth of the 2008 vintage, and it will only be available in “a few international markets already fond of Citadelle.” If pricing is to be believed, one online retailer appears to have the new gin, and at a price of $33 — a bargain for any gin enthusiast. Stock up while you can.
Given that my bottle is probably one of perhaps a half-dozen in the state of Oregon, I must confess a reluctance to use it even in my beloved Corpse Reviver #2’s, let alone experiment with it in an unproven recipe. This is a delicate spirit, and in any recipe that does not focus on gin as the primary component, its virtues are likely to be lost entirely. But for you, dear reader, I am willing to make a compromise. I will tinker with my standard martini preparation to make something a bit different, if not particularly original.
Le Martiné
• 2½ oz Citadelle Réserve Gin
• ¼ oz “New” Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth
• 1 dash Rhubarb Bitters
• 3 drops fresh lime juice
Stir (of course) with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed lime twist.
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
Citadelle is absolutely one of my “Top 3″ gins with Junipero also holding a special place in my heart. And for Citadelle to have one-upped themselves by releasing an aged gin give me no end of joy.
You’re spot-on in how much the slight oaky musk the aging brings adds to the gin. I’ve been tinkering with using it in some genever-heavy recipes and it’s a noice touch when you don’t quite want the heavy malt the genever brings. I only wish Citadelle’s distribution of this reached into Oklahoma…watching my bottle drain slowly but surely is proving depressing.
*holding placard: WILL TRADE BLOG SPACE FOR OAK AGED GIN*
At the very least, it seems clear to me that Citadelle will have to send us a bottle of each year’s vintage as it is released.